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Salon Archive is a specialty archive store dedicated to the retrospective works of Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, and John Galliano.

Our business name Salon draws direct inspiration from Vivienne Westwood’s Spring/Summer 1992 collection of the same name. In her design process, Westwood reflected on the historical significance of 18th-century French salons, vibrant cultural hubs that played a vital role in advancing artistic development across Europe. Salons were designated spaces that brought together a cross-section of local artists and intellectuals alike, and aimed to further progress in art, literature, science, and philosophy through open dialogue and the exchange of ideas. In similar spirit, Salon Archive seeks to revive the essence of the salon. Our platform operates as both a curated retail space and a historical resource, fostering discovery, dialogue, and deeper engagement with each designer’s catalogue.

Owner/ collector Daniel Cumbo boasts a lifetime of expertise in sourcing/ authenticating rare archival pieces. Each item is meticulously researched and verified using original runway documentation, vintage look-books and other lost media.

01.10.25

Fashion Journal

https://fashionjournal.com.au/pre-loved/sourcing-archival-designer/

Advice for sourcing archival designer fashion, from a vintage buyer

Mastering the art of thrift shopping is an impressive feat. It involves patience, commitment and a vision. Not all of us can comb through racks and racks at Savers or sift through endless Depop listings and emerge victorious. In my opinion, it’s a skill that builds over time – the more you shop secondhand, the better you get at finding those unicorn pieces.

Building your very own collection of archival designer is another ball game. Depending on how you approach it, this might mean tracking down and purchasing a rare piece of clothing. For others, like vintage curator and founder of Salon Archive Daniel Cumbo, it could mean developing a love for a specific designer and wanting to learn everything about them.

Having spent years working in the industry, Daniel opened their own specialty archive store last year, dedicated to sourcing pieces from Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and John Galliano. From the unique pieces lining the aisles in-store at Salon Archive, to their own personal collection (and this includes Cher Horowitz’s iconic yellow Clueless blazer), there are few as knowledgeable about sourcing archival designer as Daniel.

For those curious about dipping their toe into the waters, Daniel’s first piece of advice is to be patient. “Don’t be hasty… It’s a long game,” they explain. Sometimes, it might take a few attempts to nab your holy grail piece. Other times, it could take months, even years.

“I know nothing stings more than missing out on a sought-after piece but it’s even sweeter when you do finally secure it. And if it fades in desirability over time, then it was just a passing fancy anyway.”

Their second step? Don’t limit yourself. “I’m a firm believer that if you commit to just one method of sourcing, you’re bound to miss out on the real treasures popping up elsewhere,” they add. But that’s not all there is to it. Below, Daniel shares five steps for building your very own archival designer collection.

Runway archives and lost media

Start with the runway archives online – they’re a great entry point. From there, dig deeper into books and lost media. Vintage magazines, in particular, are an endless gold mine of forgotten information and it’s where you’ll uncover the most niche details that have yet to be scanned onto the internet.

It sounds a little silly but to understand the worth of archival pieces properly, you need to learn the designer’s entire history. Everything from their inspirations and collaborators to time frames and manufacturing methods. It’s all important to the story of what makes something special.

Shop in-store

Start by supporting small businesses! Online platforms are convenient but brick-and-mortar stores (like Salon!) often offer more than just great curation. They can introduce you to a like-minded community.

Archive, at its core, is about the rare, elusive pieces that exist on a sliding scale of museum quality. And the truth is, no major platform can offer that kind of depth or curation. Only independent sellers do.

Identifying real versus fake

Luckily, Gaultier and Galliano’s main lines haven’t really been counterfeited much throughout their careers, which is where most of my focus lies. But with Westwood, it’s a different story. With the rise in fakes, it’s really hard to trust anything at first glance.

There’s no shortcut to confidently authenticating, it takes time. Personally, clothing authentication and dating items is my specialty but even then, I consult with other collectors, enthusiasts and professional authenticators, especially when it comes to accessories. You can never be too cautious.

Pricing

If you’re unsure, a quick Google search will give you a ballpark for a lot of items. But when it comes to things that aren’t well documented online, it really comes down to experience. The more you do it, the more confident you’ll feel when it comes to pricing.

The journey is the fun part

Stay vigilant in your search, stay inspired and always keep learning. You’ll never know everything but that’s the fun of it. Archive is an ongoing pursuit of knowledge and a deeper understanding of history. And the inclusion of fashion within the contemporary art sphere is still relatively new, we’re only just beginning to unpack its cultural value. Foster and conserve!

20.05.25

Fashion Journal

https://fashionjournal.com.au/pre-loved/salon-archive-stocks-just-three-brands/

Salon Archive is the Melbourne vintage shop stocking just three brands

Few people are as dedicated to their craft as Daniel Cumbo, founder of Melbourne’s newest gem, Salon Archive. Daniel’s something of a collector, a fashion historian and a stylist. They’ve hosted Julia Fox for a personal shopping appointment, given a talk on Jean Paul Gaultier at the NGV and, most impressively, Daniel has Cher Horowitz’s iconic yellow Clueless blazer in their very own personal collection.

After eight years selling vintage online and a lifetime of collecting little pieces of fashion history, Daniel has finally fulfilled their dream of opening a shop. Located on Johnston Street in Fitzroy, Salon Archive stocks exclusively archival Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and John Galliano. Visit the shop and you’ll find that Daniel knows every piece inside and out. They can tell you the secrets of Galliano’s creative process and point out hidden Vivienne Westwood portraits in jacket linings, offering a shopping experience that feels rich and meaningful.

Salon Archive is out to change the future of Melbourne’s fashion landscape by drawing from the past of these three iconic fashion houses. “There’s truly an endless multitude of offerings these designers have given us,” Daniel says, “Far beyond the expected.”

Fashion Journal: Hi Daniel! Can you tell me a little about your background in vintage fashion and retail?

Daniel Cumbo: It’s no surprise that the majority of my working life has been in vintage. I’ve worked for a handful of different vintage stores all over Melbourne/Naarm. Fashion history has always been the central passion behind all of my endeavours.

What inspired you to open your own archival boutique?

It was always my goal to eventually open my own boutique. I’d been selling at markets and online for over eight years, but I found there was little room to grow a distinct brand identity within those contexts, especially when expressing my identity felt intrinsically necessary to stand out. So, I finally decided it was time to put myself out there properly. Plus, I’ve always felt there’s a real lack of archival specialty stores in Australia. We’re so behind the rest of the world.

Talk me through the process of how and when you first opened Salon. Did you face any challenges?

I began with a soft launch in September last year, operating by appointment only and then opened my doors to the general public a month later. Since then, I’ve realised that not everyone fully understands or is even familiar with these designers. It’s both challenging and enriching. Naarm is generally fashion-progressive, but it can still get stuck in only wanting what feels safe. There’s truly an endless multitude of offerings these designers have given us, far beyond the expected.

What’s the meaning behind the name, ‘Salon’?

‘Salon’ is a direct reference to Vivienne Westwood’s Spring/Summer 1992 collection of the same name. Westwood was inspired by the 18th-century French salons – gathering spaces for artists, poets, philosophers and other creatives to exchange ideas. When imagining the store, I wanted to loosely imbue a similar sensibility: a specialty space for like-minded individuals to connect, explore and engage.

You exclusively stock vintage archival Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and John Galliano. Why did you land on these designers?

It’s actually very personal. I began collecting (starting with Gaultier) when I was quite young. Collecting and researching these particular designers has been a lifelong obsession, a lifeline and a constant source of inspiration. In many ways, the store is simply a reflection of my private collection. It’s incredibly fulfilling to foster and share what I love with others.

What are some pieces people can expect to find in your space? Are there any favourites, or particularly iconic and rare items you’ve sourced?

It’s hard to choose favourites! But one of the standout pieces in the store is a deadstock (new with tags) Jean Paul Gaultier conical bra bodysuit from Spring/Summer 1990 – the same year Madonna famously wore hers on the Blonde Ambition tour.

There’s also a particularly beautiful, exaggerated double-breasted coat from Vivienne Westwood’s Autumn/ Winter 1994 On Liberty collection. Pieces from this period have a hidden portrait of Westwood inside the lining. It’s always such a sweet autobiographical touch. That said, I’ll admit I’m a bit of a contrarian, so my favourite pieces are often the lesser-known ones – the gems that tend to fly under the radar.

What’s your process for sourcing your vintage archival pieces?

There’s no strict process. It’s pretty organic. I source both locally and overseas. Over time, as the business has grown, more people have started coming directly to me with pieces. If something holds historic value or is just genuinely interesting, I’m chasing it.

How would you describe the feel and layout of the space to someone who’s never been?

The store is a small, unassuming space with wall-to-wall clothing and accessories. Customers have described it as a ‘dream walk-in wardrobe’ or ‘the real-life Vestiaire Collective’. Every piece is fully researched and dated, with citations included on the tags.

Tell me about your recent editorial shoot. Who did you work with to bring this to life, and what was the underlying message behind the shoot?

The editorial was a collaboration with an incredible local photographer, Hannah Baum. From the beginning, Hannah and I had in-depth conversations about Galliano’s creative process – his deep sense of romance and his way of crafting larger narratives and personas. I think that really came through in the final images. At the core, we simply wanted to let the clothes speak. But the true star was Victoria Bitter, a Naarm-based drag queen, who modelled these theatrical looks with alluring grace. Beauty incarnate.